Sake Successes – The Story and New Life of Sasaki Shuzo
Sake is fun and sometimes we forget that. Of course, we have fun everyday interacting with our tremendous customers and doing the usual tasks of selling sake. But sometimes stories come out of our everyday movements, and in a sense we become part of a “Sake Success.”
A while back, I was with importer David Sakamoto of Jizake Quest, and we were touring Miyagi Prefecture visiting several sake breweries. One brewery that we visited left us speechless with their story and passion for making sake. The sake industry is filled with amazing stories of trials and tribulations of breweries enduring amazing hardships, but Sasaki Shuzo’s story is really one to be told. Luckily, David and I were in a position to not only tell this story, but to let you become a part of this amazing sake odyssey.
There is a chance that you may have met Hiroshi Sasaki, the owner of Sasaki Shuzo at SAKE DAY 2024. Yes! That’s where his story now blends in with your own sake adventure. Jizake Quest now imports sake from Miyagi’s Sasaki Shuzo, and we carry several of their offerings. But before you taste their sake (assuming that you didn’t at SAKE DAY) here is David Sakamoto to share with you “The Story and New Life of Sasaki Shuzo”:
Japan experiences numerous earthquakes and other natural disasters every year. Nearly every disaster brings lost lives, destruction and lost dreams. In recent years, earthquakes have taken their toll: the Noto Earthquake on January 1, 2024, the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011 and the Hanshin Earthquake in 1995 brought widespread damage to different regions of Japan, but it was the 2011 earthquake in the Tohoku region that resulted in a triple disaster of earthquake, tsunami and a nuclear meltdown.
In the town of Yuriage, a small port community located in Natori City, Miyagi Prefecture, March 11, 2011, marked a day where this small port town would suffer damage from the earthquake and then suffer catastrophic damage by the ensuing tsunami.
Hiroshi Sasaki, the 5th generation owner of a small sake brewery in Yuriage, loved his seaside village where his brewery had made sake for the local community for over 140 years since 1871. The brewing year was nearing the end of the brewing cycle, and Hiroshi was eager to sell his brand, Housen Nami no Oto (Sound of the Treasure Ship’s Waves) to other businesses surrounding Yuriage and Natori City. On March 11, Hiroshi had a meeting in Natori City to sell his sake when the magnitude 9.0 earthquake struck at 2:46 p.m. Going against warnings to stay away from the coastline, Hiroshi hurried back to his brewery in Yuriage to see if his brewery suffered any damage. Others have heard about past tsunamis that occur after large earthquakes, and Hiroshi remembered what his grandmother told him – escape to the 3rd floor roof of the brewery should a tsunami occur. Within the next hour after the earthquake, the town of Yuriage would be virtually swept away by the waves of an 8.4-meter-high tsunami that destroyed 90% of the village within minutes. About 800 people from Yuriage (about 10% of its population) lost their lives that day.
In the town of Yuriage, a small port community located in Natori City, Miyagi Prefecture, March 11, 2011, marked a day where this small port town would suffer damage from the earthquake and then suffer catastrophic damage by the ensuing tsunami.
Hiroshi Sasaki, the 5th generation owner of a small sake brewery in Yuriage, loved his seaside village where his brewery had made sake for the local community for over 140 years since 1871. The brewing year was nearing the end of the brewing cycle, and Hiroshi was eager to sell his brand, Housen Nami no Oto (Sound of the Treasure Ship’s Waves) to other businesses surrounding Yuriage and Natori City. On March 11, Hiroshi had a meeting in Natori City to sell his sake when the magnitude 9.0 earthquake struck at 2:46 p.m. Going against warnings to stay away from the coastline, Hiroshi hurried back to his brewery in Yuriage to see if his brewery suffered any damage. Others have heard about past tsunamis that occur after large earthquakes, and Hiroshi remembered what his grandmother told him – escape to the 3rd floor roof of the brewery should a tsunami occur. Within the next hour after the earthquake, the town of Yuriage would be virtually swept away by the waves of an 8.4-meter-high tsunami that destroyed 90% of the village within minutes. About 800 people from Yuriage (about 10% of its population) lost their lives that day.
Hiroshi climbed to the roof and witnessed devastating damage and lives being lost that decimated the town of Yuriage, suffering wounds to a small fishing port town that will never heal. But it was then and there that Hiroshi and his brother, Junpei, decided it was essential for Sasaki Shuzo to rebuild in the same town of Yuriage that was now in ruins before their eyes.
It was impossible to rebuild immediately, so in 2012, Hiroshi agreed to utilize a temporary warehouse at the Natori City Reconstruction Industrial Park. The temporary facilities used tap water, had one sink, no drains and thin walls which made it difficult to control temperature, which is so critical in the fermentation for sake. In the spirit demonstrated by the sake industry, Sasaki Shuzo received vital manpower and equipment from other sake breweries from throughout Japan that allowed them to make modifications to the temporary warehouse and to start brewing sake again in 2012.
It was impossible to rebuild immediately, so in 2012, Hiroshi agreed to utilize a temporary warehouse at the Natori City Reconstruction Industrial Park. The temporary facilities used tap water, had one sink, no drains and thin walls which made it difficult to control temperature, which is so critical in the fermentation for sake. In the spirit demonstrated by the sake industry, Sasaki Shuzo received vital manpower and equipment from other sake breweries from throughout Japan that allowed them to make modifications to the temporary warehouse and to start brewing sake again in 2012.
The situation made Hiroshi think about his values and the way he does things, and how he could do things differently to make sake better every year, every batch, starting from scratch, climbing back up. Don’t waste time on things that can’t be helped. Thinking about how creative you can be is what enriches your life.
When Hiroshi first took over the business, he was not one to innovate. He valued stability so that he could keep doing what he did yesterday tomorrow. The experience gained from operating in a temporary warehouse with makeshift equipment made Hiroshi and his brother truly realize the spirit of Japan shared by producing better sake.
In 2017, Yuriage’s plans progressed to allow rebuilding of the town. Hiroshi thought his brand, Nami no Oto, would be worthless unless the new brewery was built in a place where you can hear the sound of the waves. So, he initiated plans to rebuild the brewery at its original location. In the summer of 2019, Hiroshi and Junpei moved out of the temporary warehouse and started brewing at its new facility in October 2019 – eight and a half years after the earthquake.There are so many stories to tell about the earthquake and tsunami. The story about death and destruction witnessed from the brewery’s rooftop to the story about the “Miracle Tank” of Nami no Oto Yuri Junmai. [Ask Beau about this story!] But Sasaki Shuzo doesn’t dwell about the brewery being destroyed by the tsunami. Instead, they prefer to be known as the brewery that rebuilt after the tsunami. Sasaki Shuzo will be seen as the spiritual support and a symbol of the town of Yuriage. “Our role is to tell the story of recovery.”
When Hiroshi first took over the business, he was not one to innovate. He valued stability so that he could keep doing what he did yesterday tomorrow. The experience gained from operating in a temporary warehouse with makeshift equipment made Hiroshi and his brother truly realize the spirit of Japan shared by producing better sake.
In 2017, Yuriage’s plans progressed to allow rebuilding of the town. Hiroshi thought his brand, Nami no Oto, would be worthless unless the new brewery was built in a place where you can hear the sound of the waves. So, he initiated plans to rebuild the brewery at its original location. In the summer of 2019, Hiroshi and Junpei moved out of the temporary warehouse and started brewing at its new facility in October 2019 – eight and a half years after the earthquake.There are so many stories to tell about the earthquake and tsunami. The story about death and destruction witnessed from the brewery’s rooftop to the story about the “Miracle Tank” of Nami no Oto Yuri Junmai. [Ask Beau about this story!] But Sasaki Shuzo doesn’t dwell about the brewery being destroyed by the tsunami. Instead, they prefer to be known as the brewery that rebuilt after the tsunami. Sasaki Shuzo will be seen as the spiritual support and a symbol of the town of Yuriage. “Our role is to tell the story of recovery.”
Sasaki Shuzo has grown from a local sake brewery supplying sake to the local fishermen to now being exported to Europe and now debuting to the United States. They want to take the lessons learned from their experience to the world. We now use the best sake rice grown in Miyagi and Japan, combining what we learned with different yeasts and brewing methods to create sake that will be appreciated around the world.
The story of Sasaki Shuzo is a story of resilience, a story of how one takes on hardship and overcomes adversity. It is a story of rebirth.
The story of Sasaki Shuzo is a story of resilience, a story of how one takes on hardship and overcomes adversity. It is a story of rebirth.
You can meet David Sakamoto as he pours 4 brews from Sasaki Shuzo on Saturday November 16th at True Sake. Please refer to the “Sake Events” section of this newsletter for details.
Housen Kura no Hana “Sound of the Waves”
From Miyagi Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: ±0 Acidity: 2.0
The nose on this Miyagi magical sake is a cool collection of papaya, ginger, orange peel, blueberry, pine, graham cracker, nutmeg, and persimmon aromas. Why “magical”? Long story short, this brewery was once destroyed by the 3/11 tsunami, and all that was left was one tank of sake with a plastic cover than ended up a mile away and the brewery, then bottled and released it. This is the exact sake, and it’s the first Tokubetsu Junmai using Miyagi’s Kura no Hana rice varietal in the store. Light, medium-bodied, fresh, dry in the palate and finish, this brew has an outstanding acidity play that would appeal to wine drinkers. It a word, we call sake like this “sessionable,” which means it goes down so easy. Part dry, part watery, and with a phantom finish, it is extremely food friendly. Look for apricot, Clementine, cinnamon apples, persimmon, pasta water, snowmelt, and steamed rice flavors that drink gentle and with such ease. This sake is truly magical for many reasons – pick your favorite! WORD: Magical WINE: Dry Reds/Citric Whites BEER: Crisp Ales FOODS: Anything from the land, sea, skies, and the rest – a food pairing monster.
Housen Loin “Sound of the Waves”
From Miyagi Prefecture. Junmai Daiginjo. SMV: -5 Acidity: 1.4
The nose on this exciting sake from Miyagi Prefecture is a classic collection of white flower, blueberry, pear, mango, tropical fruit, papaya, and kiwi aromas that form the perfect “Ginjo-ka” fragrance. Made with Yamadanishiki rice from Hyogo milled to 40% and house yeast, this Daiginjo is extremely flavorful with stunning impact and drinkability. Vibrant, lively, fresh, smooth, rich, viscous, with integrated acidity, this delightful brew from Sasaki Shuzo (Magic Tank) drinks with a slight spritz and a quick dry finish. Look for mochi rice, Concord grape, strawberry, pineapple, papaya, and candied pear flavors that dance across the palate. A complex yet elegant sake from a fantastic sake brewery. WORD: Vivid WINE: Fruity Reds/Lively Whites BEER: Crisp Ales FOODS: Sushi, sashimi, shellfish, oysters, caviar, ankimo, grilled fish and chicken, fresh cheese and fruit plates.
From Miyagi Prefecture. Junmai Daiginjo. SMV: -5 Acidity: 1.4
The nose on this exciting sake from Miyagi Prefecture is a classic collection of white flower, blueberry, pear, mango, tropical fruit, papaya, and kiwi aromas that form the perfect “Ginjo-ka” fragrance. Made with Yamadanishiki rice from Hyogo milled to 40% and house yeast, this Daiginjo is extremely flavorful with stunning impact and drinkability. Vibrant, lively, fresh, smooth, rich, viscous, with integrated acidity, this delightful brew from Sasaki Shuzo (Magic Tank) drinks with a slight spritz and a quick dry finish. Look for mochi rice, Concord grape, strawberry, pineapple, papaya, and candied pear flavors that dance across the palate. A complex yet elegant sake from a fantastic sake brewery. WORD: Vivid WINE: Fruity Reds/Lively Whites BEER: Crisp Ales FOODS: Sushi, sashimi, shellfish, oysters, caviar, ankimo, grilled fish and chicken, fresh cheese and fruit plates.