Taste with KJ – Umeshu With Attitude
If you’ve ever perused the store and taken a slight look into the sweet section, a little horror of a bottle may have caught your eye. There is a tiny square bottle* with an ominous face taunting us from the shelf. The first time I ever witnessed this scary mask called the ‘Han’nya’ was in the 60s black and white horror movie Onibaba. One of the most fun aspects of the sake industry is the relentless creativity on labels regarding imagery and word play. The Han’nya mask is used in Noh theatre and represents the sinful demonization of emotions related to jealousy.
*Hannya also comes in 720ml
The mask has a strange allure to it, which makes it perfect to represent one of the most wild and divisive sake that reside in the shop. It is called Ginkoubai Hannyatou “Hot Devil” by Ippongi Kubohonten from Fukui Prefecture. It is an umeshu infused with red chili pepper. It is relatively sweet, with a rich and seductive texture, sour plum acidity to balance the sugar and a finish that transforms into a searing hot spicy crescendo.
Once dry January ended, I was looking to branch out and try one of our more unique sake with a simple food pairing. The choice was our spicy umeshu with pork and vegetable gyoza, aka Japanese potstickers. The vegetable gyoza came from good ol’ Trader Joe’s in Hayes Valley and contained white cabbage, chive, carrot and ginger, while the pork gyoza came from time-honored Kirala Japanese in Berkeley, CA.
Having tried this sake ages ago at a tasting event, I remembered its power and vivacity. I thought it would pair nicely with dumplings cooked in oil and dipped in tangy gyoza sauce (garlic, soy sauce, rice vinegar, etc).
What my partner and I discovered during this pairing was that the temperature of the Hannya made an incredible difference in the experience. When the hot devil is chilled, the nose is full of red candy notes and pretty plum. The acidity at this temperature is fresh and zesty, with the chili pepper giving a strong tactile heat. These elements match perfectly with the high acid/umami taste of the gyoza sauce. The refreshing and sweet umeshu adds balance to the spicy feeling and creates a tasty flavor triangle.
When focusing on the vegetarian dumplings which had a crunchy salted outside and a soft middle, the Hannya slightly overpowered its delicate features. The pork gyoza were a bit more oily, with lots of deep, meaty flavors and a solid dose of ginger. The sweetness of the umeshu almost overpowered, but the chili fire kept it in check and cut right through the intensity of the pork and ginger gyoza. As a food and beverage professional, my mind went straight to, ‘How could this be better?’ Using Hannya as a base for a highball filled with sparkling wine or club soda would be incredibly thirst-quenching. One would just have to be careful of the ratio of Hannya to bubbly water or wine. The bubbles themselves will exacerbate the chili pepper, but serving it on ice should help keep the spice at bay. Another contender for a dumpling pairing would be the slightly effervescent Senkin Junmai Daiginjo ‘Snowman’ (they’re going out of production, get em’ while they last!).
While experimenting with temperature, we had to try super hot tobikirkan (131F) to see what the hot devil would do to us. At this seriously hot temperature, the chili pepper is heightened to an uncomfortable level. It reminded me of cayenne lemon iced tea. If anything, it would be nice to drink spicy umeshu at this temp with stuffed chile rellenos or other fiery Mexican dishes. When the sake cooled a bit down to atsukan (122F), it expressed an essence similar to hibiscus tea. The fruit was revealed and the chili tapered down. The sweetness mellowed out and the acidity stayed bright. Slightly warmed at nurukan (104F), seems to be Hannya’s happy place, with a plethora of flavor emergence. Aromas abound with notes of cinnamon Fireball, habanero honey, cherry cordial, burnt orange rind and lilac. This is when we realized that Hannya is the ultimate cocktail partner. It can be mixed with so many spirits and included in creative recipes. Some complimentary ingredients that come to mind are saffron, coconut milk and black pepper. This temperature also revealed Hannya’s ability to be used as a sauce. It would make a particularly tasty sauce for BBQ pulled pork or pork shoulder. It could also be part of a chutney served with crispy fried chicken or in a rich Szechuan dish. Hannya can also be served in place of traditional gyoza sauce. And yes, we figured this out by dipping the gyoza straight into the Hannya! Using Hannya as an ingredient in a sauce or dish itself is reminiscent of pineapple-driven Hawaiian dishes and Chinese food. It could even pair with a semi-sweet coconut curry with mixed vegetables, crossing cuisine boundaries far and wide.
As for after dinner, this sake would work amazingly as a pairing partner with either deep dark chocolate desserts or with milky and creamy delicate ones where the spicy umeshu can be the star. The brewery suggests cutting Hannya with some milk, which is tasty, but the chili loses its edge. Instead, try using Hannya mixed with greek yogurt and baking spice to make a frozen yogurt bar in your freezer at home!
What is supremely true of this Hot Devil is that it’s a fantastic option chilled as an aperitif, on the rocks in lieu of a spirit pour, as an ingredient in a sauce for multiple cuisines, as a mixer in cocktails or with a dash of milk as a nightcap. The brewery does mention on its website to take heed when letting ice melt into Hannya. They say the sweetness will subside, but the sharp chili spice will linger. This sake has one of the most diverse skill sets; giving it the ability to pair with a long list of items and serve a multitude of needs in the kitchen. Taste the power of Hannya and she will never let you go!