Dear Sake Drinker,
Welcome to the December Issue of America's sake-centric Newsletter. In
this issue take the pain out of holiday shopping, get a "woody" with
taru sake and a "barrel" poem, poke some fun at AT&T, sneak a peek at
an aged nama-zake, witness how sake works well with Cuban cuisine, and
scoff at Beau's blown New Year's Resolutions of 2010.
Holiday Hours:
- Saturdays 12/4, 12/11 & 12/18: 11am -7pm
- Friday 12/24, Christmas Eve: 11am - 4pm
- Saturday 12/25, Christmas Day: Closed
- Friday 12/31, New Years Eve: 11am - 4pm (20% off on sparkling sakes in-store only)
- Saturday 1/1, New Years Day: Closed
In this issue:
Sake Season - Ten Sake Gifts For The Holidays
'Tis The Season To Give The Perfect Gift - 10 Sake Gifts To Cheer
About
Are you stressed? Who isn't? Do you have time to "gift?" Do you have
the desire to hit the streets, to push through the crowds, to feed the
meter, to pay the parking ticket, to get that Smart Car towed? Do you
have the patience to check out store after store looking for a gift
that will "do?" Do the holidays feel like torture? So why not take the
easy out? Why not crush your shopping list in one fell swoop?
What follows is a killer list of sake gifts that will take your game
to the next level. You won't get frustrated and you won't get a
parking ticket, because of our True Sake "Double Parking" special.
(Please double-park in front of the store - open your trunk and put
the emergency lights on, and we will watch your car. If you get a
ticket True Sake will pay for it.)
The gift of sake is as easy and classy as it gets! Who wants another
bottle of Scotch? "Ohhhhh wine again - Great!" "Hey thanks so much for
my four pears in a box!" Or how about my all-time favorite, "Wow, a
can with three types of popcorn - whoooohoooo!"
Herewith are 10 sake presents that cannot get any easier on the "just
get it over with" scale:
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10)
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Bunraku Junmai Ginjo Kinpaku $18/300ml.
Talk about a fun themed sake gift! Kinpaku is a style of sake where
the brewers actually add pounded gold leaf into the bottle. Since
gold is inert it has no bearing on the flavor but it definitely
enhances the appearance. Think of a damn tasty snow globe!
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9)
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Takenotsuyu Haguro Genzo Tokkuri Honjozo $40/720ml.
This amazingly soft and layered Honjozo comes in a traditional sake
jug and also has an ochoko (sake cup) for a cap! Once the really
yummy Honjozo is gone the traditional ceramic jug and cup will live
on! This also comes in a really cool box!
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8)
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Shirataki "Sara Wind" Junmai $27/500ml.
Yes, this is one of the top "eye-catching" gift giving sakes! Sara
Wind comes in a really cool frosted clear bottle and also has a
glass sake cup as a cap. But when you tie this entire package in a
bandana, look out! The sake is extremely user-friendly and is a
"can't miss" Junmai brew that appeals to all. A very cool stocking
stuffer.
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7)
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Umenishiki "Red Box" Junmai Daiginjo $102/720ml.
This is one of the tried and true gift giving sakes in Japan. In
fact the brew is known as "The Red Box" because it comes in a
really fine massive red velvet box. The best part about this sake
is that it is superb! It's not just another pretty sake face. It is
the real deal and those who know sake know this gift!
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6)
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Akishika Junmai "Bambi Cup" $7/180ml.
These superb "One Cup" sakes are exclusive to True Sake. The best
part about a killer One Cup is that after the superb sake is gone,
the cup remains. The Bambi Cup is one of the coolest One Cups in
the biz! Great flavored sake coupled with great packaging - how
could you go wrong giving a sake treat to a deer lover?
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5)
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Kotsuzumi "Rojohanaari" Junmai Daiginjo $150/720ml.
If you are looking to make a serious "statement" this holiday
season then give the gift of pure class! "Rojo" is a damn-near
perfect sake that blows drinkers of all backgrounds away. It is a
connoisseur's brew, but drinks like water for those who do not know
sake. The bottle is cobalt and is hand blown in Italy. There is a
cork top. And the box is silver and blue and is as cool as boxes
get!
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4)
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Kikusui Sake Sampler $15/3x180ml.
This little sake sampler is quite popular on account of the
packaging! Three different sakes are canned and nestled inside a
cool box. Great for a value present for the office "Gift Exchange."
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3)
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Yuki no Bosha "Cabin in the Snow" Junmai Ginjo $17/$300ml
This is the perfect sake stuffing! A very clean small frosted
square bottle is filled with some kick-ass Ginjo sake that speaks
to those who love big fruit! A great "little" gift that keeps you
under the "Kris Kringle" limit of $20.
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2)
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Tamanohikari Reishu "Adult Juice Box" $8/300ml.
Come on! Who wouldn't love to get a juice box-looking sake in a
Tetra-pak that is perfect to sneak into movies or concerts? This
"box" sake is delicious chilled and is also made for freezing into
a sake slush. When you get caught (which you won't) you can blame
True Sake for selling you an "Energy Drink."
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1)
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Sake Socks! $24/pair
For the sake drinker who has it all! True Sake sells maekake
(brewer's apron) socks that were designed by Beau to represent the
maekake and sake industry. Think indigo blue with a hint of white
and orange. These very sought after socks are a huge hit with sake
brewers and owners in Japan, and would complete any wardrobe! Now
giving socks for the holidays is not an embarrassing act!
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For more gift ideas, please check out True Sake Selects section of
this newsletter.
Holiday Hours:
- Saturdays 12/4, 12/11 & 12/18: 11am -7pm
- Friday 12/24, Christmas Eve: 11am - 4pm
- Saturday 12/25, Christmas Day: Closed
- Friday 12/31, New Years Eve: 11am - 4pm (20% off on sparkling sakes in-store only)
- Saturday 1/1, New Years Day: Closed
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Sake Poem - "A Sake Barrel" and Taru Sake
A Sake Barrel
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A sake barrel,
Born without hands, makes merry -
Cherry blossom time.
Ihara Saikaku
(1642 - 1693 / Japan)
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Granted this poem was written with spring in mind, but I liked the
"makes merry" aspect, especially for the holidays. I am assuming the
"Born without hands" means fermenting sake, doing it's own thing. Of
course they not only produced sake in barrels at that time but they
stored nihonshu in wooden barrels as well. Thus sake definitely had
"woody" characteristics back in the day.
Today several breweries make "taru-zake" or cedar sake that harkens
back to those woody qualities of year's past. Why? Cedar sakes have a
nice "difference" to them. They are not fruity, not overtly dry, not
pristine. They are different and that's what makes them enjoyable. If
you have never tried a taru-zake, we currently carry three different
brews to choose from. It's tough to hunker down and drink a lot of
taru-zake, but a glass or two with a hearty meal of perhaps smoked
fish, fowl, or game is a very good call. Temperature wise I prefer my
cedar sakes at room temperature, which brings out more of the woody
characteristics. I also like to drink taru-zake out of masu! A cedar
sake out of a cedar box! This is fun to do, but it also reminds one
how "cedary" a sake can taste.
Typically a brewery will produce a full-bodied or dry Junmai and will
then pour that sake into cedar casks for roughly two weeks. Any more
time than that and the sake absorbs too much of the cedar elements and
gets almost antiseptic. This is the major reason why they do not ship
filled cedar taru casks used in celebrations and events from Japan to
the US. It takes too much time, over 30 days, and this would be too
long in the barrel.
Taru-zake is as close to Whiskey or Scotch as the sake industry gets.
Whiskey and Scotch use those wooden barrels to extract flavor and
color, and so too does taru-zake. But the only major difference is the
duration within the barrel. I once tasted an aged taru sake that was
aged in wood for 8 years, and it was not that great. In fact my host
said that he only liked it warmed up, and I had to agree, although it
still was pretty rough.
But if you like smoky and rich flavors of wood and rice then perhaps
it's time to try a taru-zake. And as the weather gets cold and your
fireplace gets hot, now is the time to try this throwback sake.
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Ichinokura Taru "Barrel"
From Miyagi Prefecture.
Junmai Taru. SMV: +2 Acidity:1.4
This Junmai Taru, which is cedar-kept sake from "Ace Brewery" is a
terrific example of how sake used to taste way back in the day of
all cedar casks. The nose is a blend of Japanese cedar and apple
blossoms with a faint hint of tropical citrus. It has a very
subtle start despite the robust nose and is filled with a savory
middle- mouth of dried apples and overripe pears. There is a hint
of thickness that makes the viscosity dance in a salty aftertaste.
It is slightly chewy and syrupy, and changes flavors as the fluid
warms in the mouth. WORD: Apple WINE: Oaky whites/zesty reds
BEER: Smoky Ambers FOODS: Stews, dumplings, cooked veggies, pates.
$27/500ml
Ozeki Komatsu Tatewaki "Samurai Sake"
From Hyogo Prefecture. Junmai Taru. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.6
This cedar-aged (less than two weeks) brew has a smoky, grainy,
vanilla, charcoal, and cedar nose. A well-balanced taru-zake that
has several degrees of flavors that are best expressed in
different sized glasses. A small cup brings forth more cedar tones
on a dry fluid with a quick finish. A larger cup displays a more
open cedar flavor with a deep layer of sweetness similar to
caramel or noughet with more pronounced acidity and a slightly
tangy finish. The brew gets more vast at room temperature
highlighting the cedar and acidity play. If you like drinking sake
from a masu (cedar box) this brew will speak to you. WORD: Cedar
WINE: Zesty reds/Crisp whites BEER: Crisp smoky ales FOODS: Smoked
meat, fowl, fish, and cheeses.
$22/720ml
Kiku Masumune Taru "Barrel" (300ml bottle)
From Hyogo Prefecture. Junmai Taru. SMV: +5
This is a solid example of a traditional tasting sake in the sense
that it is barrel aged. Kiku Masumune is known for its dry sakes,
and this Taru does not disappoint. True to tradition and aged in
cedar casks, Taru is bottled when the natural cedar fragrance
strikes the perfect balance with the flavor of the sake. The nose
is of course cedar and there is a rich golden color. The sake is
thinner than one would think, and the mouth speed is quite fast.
The texture is clear and the taste is cedar focused. WORD: Cedar
WINE: Very Cedary Whites BEER: Special Seasonal Brews FOODS:
Works well with smoked foods such as fish, chicken and duck.
$6/300ml
Kiku Masumune Taru "Barrel" (Newly released 720ml bottle 2010)
From Hyogo Prefecture. Junmai Taru. SMV: +5
This taru "cedar" sake has a prototypical cedar aroma profile with
hints of honey, cinnamon, and Christmas spices. With a low alcohol
percentage of between 13-14% this taru sake drinks incredibly
light and smooth for a sake that has a lot of flavor and feeling.
Look for smoked rice, red pepper, vanilla, and cinnamon flavors
amongst the cedar anchor, and the body of the brew gets more full
as the sake warms in the glass. The brew drinks dry from start to
finish and there is a crisp tingle tail that puts the punctuation
on the cedar elements. The larger the glass the thinner the body,
and softness reigns supreme out of any sized vessel. WORD: Cedary
WINE: Dry reds/Oaky whites BEER: Crisp ales FOODS: Smoked fish,
fowl, game, cheeses and salty snacks.
$21/720ml
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We used to carry this last cedar sake, but the brewery changed
distributors and we no longer have access to it, but if you see it out
on the market it is definitely worth a try. (One of my favorite taru-
zakes on account of the elegance of this brew.)
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Kikusakari Taru "Cedar"
Ibaraki Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.5
An amazing aroma profile filled with mild cedar, brown sugar and
toffee. This Taru or "cedar sake" was said to be aged "slowly" in
Akita cedar barrels to give this brew a very unique smoky-peppery
flavor. It is both mellow and light on the pure cedar aspect of a
Taru; more elegant than an "in your face, woody sake." The hidden
flavors speak volumes - look for the smoked tofu and Gouda layers.
The brilliant water is unmistakable. WORD: Smoky WINE: Barrel aged
big reds/big whites BEER: Crisp ales FOODS: Smoked fish, tofu,
cheese plates, risotto.
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True Sake Protest - Thank God AT&T Does NOT Make Sake
When was the last time that you got fed up? The serious sort of fed up
where instead of just taking it you decide to do something about it?
Well I was and I did!
It has been a running joke (albeit a bad one) that the True Sake store
does not have AT&T cell reception. For 8 years we have had zero bars.
For 8 years we have had "No Signal." And for 8 years we just sort of
laughed it up! In fact for me to make a cell call or send a text I
must walk into the middle of Hayes Street, stand on one foot and raise
my cell to the heavens with my right hand just to send a text. I have
to take off certain articles of clothing to make a call. (Yes that
picture circulating on the net of the naked Statue of Liberty guy
standing in the middle of the street is me trying to make a phone
call.)
Well, one day the joke wasn't funny. My daughter was hurt at school
and they tried to phone and alert me. No signal. No reception. Yes big
anger! I was pissed. So I decided to tell AT&T what I thought using my
powers of window display creation skills.
In a word the window has been a hit. People stop, laugh, nod in
agreement, and then take a picture. We have had vans from competing
cellular service carriers stop and take pictures, all the while
laughing their rears off. I have been told that it is now on YouTube
and Flickr.
However! AT&T has not been laughing. They sent several representatives
to "explain" themselves. I wasn't really interested in their excuses.
Then higher and higher ups came to "offer their services." Eventually
the President of AT&T Wireless paid a visit. The long and short of it
is that they offered us a micro-cell tower for the store. I have
repeatedly told them that I did not do the window to benefit me, but
rather I want cell service for all of Hayes Valley. They have come
back with an offer to get micro-cell towers for all of the merchants
in Hayes Valley. A good start, but we just want regular cell service.
PERIOD!
So herewith is the window display that voices my displeasure with
idiocy of not having cell service in a major city in the United States
of America.
http://www.officewiederholt.com/att
I'd like to Thank Sven Wiederholt - the Renaissances Man - for
shooting the window!!
Check out his website:
http://www.officewiederholt.com
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Sake Spotlight - BT Goes Aged Nama With Harushika
5 cases! That's all we have! Basically we only have 60 bottles of an
amazing aged nama-zake that was imported exclusively for True Sake. If
you want to experience a very unique aged "nama" sake that has vast
and expansive "living" qualities then take a chance on this extremely
flavorful sake that is all attitude.
I have tasted this sake in various incarnations, in different
countries and at different temperatures. What impresses me is the
extent of the impact of the brew. It is bombastic and quite vivid in
character. If flavor were a penny this brew is a $1,000 bill.
Nama sake is "expected" to be consumed as quickly as possible, but
some breweries will age or "rest" their namas to bring out more
"fullness" or deeper flavor. The 210 days that Harushika ages this
sake does both!
My importers know how much that I enjoy this brew so they secure five
cases per year for True Sake.
We received this sake for the first time last year and herewith was my
review then:
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Harushika "Spring Deer" (2009)
From Nara Prefecture. Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu (Nama). SMV: -5
Acidity: 2.0 Yeast: Harushika #6
The aroma profile on this "aged unpasteurized" sake that is
EXCLUSIVE to True Sake is flush with ripe fruit tones such as
strawberry, mango, grape, and floral elements. Okay folks! This is
the round, soft, super smooth fruit bomb sake that you have been
looking for. A truly unique brew that is so velvety and ripe with
explosive fruity flavors such as strawberry and honeydew that you
would think it needs a huge acidity push - but none exists. Soft
ripe fruit on a honey flavored gooey fluid. Fat, smooth and
friendly - so drinkable with so much personality perhaps it is the
210 days of aging for this raw sake. Crazy! and 17% alc to boot!
WORD: Juicy WINE: Ripe reds/ bright whites BEER: Sweet Belgian
Ales FOODS: Spicy and savory fare, American sushi, cheese and
fruit dishes.
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My latest tasting of this "Fruit Monster" was conducted in Colorado
with the outside temperature at around -4 F. Cold sake on a cold
night! It still warmed the cockles. My fellow tastees were not that
sake savvy, so I greatly enjoyed their feedback, which were amazingly
positive.
Herewith is my "three different sized-glass" tasting notes. (I used an
ochoko, small pub glass, and a white wine glass.)
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Harushika "Spring Deer" (2010)
From Nara Prefecture. Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu. SMV: -5 Acidity: 2.0
The nose on this very raw and living nama sake is a crazed
collection of mango, green apple, honeysuckle, melon, ripe
persimmon, and other tropical fruit aromas. Talk about a fat and
fruity sake with immense legs on the glass. This genshu
(undiluted) sake has an impressive 17-18 alcohol percentage that
manifests itself in a larger flavor forward inflection that speaks
big fruit and big feeling. Expansive, robust, chewy, viscous, and
every other "large and vivacious" terms in the book apply to a
sake that is huge in the glass and smooth on the palette. In a
word this is a cheerful brew that is plump and loaded with fruit-
basket flavors such as plum, honeydew, mango, and blueberry pulls.
Sweeter in a small glass and smoother in a larger vessel, the
unique aspect of this nama sake is that it drinks great chilled,
room and at warmed temperatures. Yes! Warming a nama works! If you
are looking for a chippy, zesty and brash fruity mouth circus this
brew is all attitude and all you. WORD: Vast WINE: Beaujolais
BEER: Big Belgians FOODS: It's a meal in the glass, but would
dance with shellfish, American sushi, spicy fare, and big flavored
game and fowl dishes.
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The feedback from the "uninitiated" who tasted with me was pretty
amazing. The quality that stuck out most was the sheer and pure
fruitiness. They were amazed with how fruit-forward the sake drank.
They were also impressed with how smooth the sake drank for all of the
fat and gooey flavors. Lastly, the collective was pretty impressed
with the fact that the sake was 18% alcohol but they could not taste
"any booze."
I picked this sake for the Spotlight on account of the fact that it
won't be around for long, and it is truly an "event" when drinking. So
much fruit so much gooiness - so loaded and yet so drinkable. Take a
one in sixty chance that this sake will hit your nihonshu sweet tooth
with feeling and passion. And add an "aged nama" to your sake
checklist!
You can review many of our sakes on our web site.
Our inventory list is here.
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Sake Challenge - Sake vs. Cuban (Pan Latin)
I am on a spiritual sake quest that will finally put a nail in the
coffin of "sake can only be consumed at a sushi restaurant" mantra.
Wake up people! Food and sake go together - always have and always
will. If it has a tail, roots, feathers, leaves, or a damn beak sake
will go with it - anytime and any place. And that is my quest - the
place or origin of the cuisine does not matter. It can be Spanish,
Italian, Brazilian or ughhhh British chow and sake will walk the walk.
Japan has chickens! Japan has salad! Japan has beef! Japan has spicy
and savory dishes! Japan has sweet and salty fare, so why not think
about having sake with these "tones" from other countries?
The Sake Challenge is my way for you great consumers to see outside of
the sushi paradigm, and to achieve this "new view on brew" I will
usually select two different sake styles and price-points and bring
them to a non-Japanese restaurant with a celebrity, sake-sleuth or
hell even a friend in tow. Read about past challenges:
When reviewing restaurants and their specific cuisines paired with
sake I use the following criteria:
- Works World Class (WWC)
- Works Well (WW)
- Works (W)
- Does Not Work (DNW)
This criterion is more true to the mission of bringing a beverage to a
restaurant not knowing what you will pair with. The point is to make
the general pairings "work." Rare is the day that you bring a specific
wine or sake to pair with a specific dish - we look for generalities
and the entire eating/drinking experience. Think of fishing with a net
as opposed to a hook and line - a pairing is supposed to reach out and
catch more flavors as opposed to just hitting one match.
Cuban, Cuban, Cuban! I've always wanted to take rice and water to that
funky little nation, and with the help of a great restaurant on
Mission Street called Charanga "Pan Latin Cuisine"
(www.charangasf.com) I did not have to alter my passport to get
there. Charanga is a superb dinning experience and many thanks to
Heather and Chef Gaby for making our night one to remember. In tow on
my exotic travels to that forbidden land, I was honored to once again
have Kazu Yamazaki from Japan Prestige Sake International - sake
importers - and Daijiro Hosaka who is the international face of
Niigata's very famous Shirataki brewery, makers of Jozen
Mizunogotoshi. Dai-san spends a good deal of time in the States trying
to get more folks to drink Jozen. The three of us had a terrific time
throwing Japanese sake at Cuban inspired cuisine, and I made Dai-san
try to be as partial as he could even though his sake was one of the
chosen brews.
This month's Challenge featured two popular sakes:
- Kouro Junmai Ginjo
- Jozen Junmai Ginjo
And away we go!
1st Course: Ceviche Tico Classic - wild red snapper, peppers, jalapenjo, onions, cilantro, tomatoes, and lemon juice.
- Kouro - The nice full-figured body of the Kouro takes all of the
acidity and creates a rounder and more mellow flavor of the snapper.
Basically the brew throws a net over all of the bright flavors and
what is left is a unified flavor that is very well balanced. I'm
impressed with how this Ginjo stands toe to toe with the explosion
of acidity. Kazu felt that the Kouro stood too tall and the
booziness of the sake washed off the assorted flavors and left a
fishy flavor.
BT - WW
KY - DNW
DH - W
- Jozen - The Jukusei Junmai Ginjo absorbs the pronounced acidity
of the dish and then acts like a wash or "usher" of flavor through
the palette. What is interesting is that the acidity and crisp
flavors actually make the sake drink drier. A very good isolation
flavor were the tomatoes with the Jozen, which created a subtle
umami play. Kazu said the Jozen cut the flavors and cut the
"vinegar," creating a good pairing.
BT - W
KY - WW
DH - W
2nd Course: Chifrijo - layers of rice and beans, pico de gallo with crackling pig.
- Kouro - This very savory dish jumps right into your mouth with
salty and rich elements. The Kouro bounces off the soul of the
flavors, and conflicts to a certain extent as the alcohol of the
brew comes forward. There is a unique tingle that is created in the
pairing, almost a zestiness that isn't too off-putting as it
brightens the richness. Kazu said that it didn't hurt or help the
dish.
BT - W
KY - W
DH - W
- Jozen - Basically this dish is ricy, spicy, and savory and the
Jozen takes each component and settles them together, a calming of
sorts. There is a peek-a-boo acidity to the finish but on the whole
this is the point of pairing a libation with cuisine - to capture
flavors and make them better. Jozen succeeds in this capacity. Kazu
said the sake adds a sweetness to the dish and cuts the saltiness.
BT - WW
KY- WW
DH - WW
3rd Course: Albondigas - little Cuban meatballs, pimenton sauce.
- Kouro - This is a pretty spicey little meatball! As I don't beef,
I only tried a portion and was pretty amazed how the Kouro one-upped
the spice. The body and texture of the brew covered all of the heat
and subdued the spice - quite a feat! Kazu said the spicy dish
stands by itself and the sake just walks along.
BT - WW
KY - W
DH - W
- Jozen - Uh-Oh! The Jozen is almost too clean for this spice fight
and sadly there is a bit of bitterness that comes out of the brew.
It doesn't get overwhelmed but it does disappear and gets lost in
the spice tornado. Kazu said the Jozen washed off the spice enough
that he called it canceling each other out.
BT - DNW
KY - W
DH - W
4th Course: Panchanga de Mariscos - shrimp, mussels, calamari, fish, spicy coconut-lemongrass broth, green plantains, yucca, and chayote.
- Kouro - There is a lot going on with this offering, flavors abound
and the Kouro unbelievably gets lost. I wrote that it gets
distracted and uneven, but I did like how it made the mussels taste
fresher. Kazu said the Kouro and the coconut broth worked great
together.
BT - W
KY- WW
DH - W
- Jozen - Again the thinness of the Jozen compared to the Kouro
allowed this brew to be more of a wash of flavors. The broth makes
Jozen drink sweeter and more exotic. And by themselves the mussels
get far creamier with the Jozen. Kazu said that Jozen and the
seafood go together no problem, and the sake harmonizes with the
coconut soup.
BT - WW
KY - W
DH - W
5th Course: Lechon Asado - Cuban-style roast pork marinated in citrus, garlic, and oregano with hash.
- Kouro - The Kouro comes out swinging on this pairing as it slaps
the savoriness of this dish in the face and follows with an acidic
push. Sharp and boozy is the immediate push, but the finish does
better. The Kouro and the hash work well. Kazu said that the brew
gets almost bitter and the alcohol comes forth too much.
BT - W
KY - DNW
DH - W
- Jozen - Oh boy! This is one of those good union plays on account
of the feeling of the pairing. The flavor is all forward, and then
the feeling comes into play - large and lush, smooth and round with
a great finish. The garlic and citrus bounce in flavor tandems with
the sake, but then they blend in union to make a splendid swallow.
Kazu said the Jozen highlights the pork and harmonizes with the
flavors.
BT - WWW
KY - W
DH - W
Summary:
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Damn! What can I say? This is sort of the essence of why I do these
Sake Challenges - to give a small glimpse at the possibility that
sake does go with insane flavors such as lemons, citrus, tomatoes,
jalapeņos, garlic, and coconut-lemongrass. The best description
about this pairing is that sake does indeed work well with the
exotic nature of Cuban food on several levels. First sake has an
uncanny ability to dance with all sorts of flavors - to create new
flavors and to harmonize with base elements of the dish. Secondly
sake has the ability to corral or re-group wild flavors into a
superior drinking experience. Lastly, I am always impressed how sake
has "skill-set" to make foods feel better in the palette, and Cuban
food is no exception. When I decide to break our Government's ban on
travel to Cuba, I will do so with sake in hand and a smile on my
chops.
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Sake Events
December 3rd - 20th Annual Hayes Valley Block Party & Toy Drive
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Join us in the evening to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the
famous Hayes Valley Block Party. Many merchants will be offering
specials, music, beverages, and more.
The San Francisco Fire Department will be also hosting their toy
drive at the Hayes Green, a small park on Octavia and Hayes. Bring
unwrapped toys to donate!
When: Friday, December 3rd
Time: 6:00-9:00pm
Where: Hayes Street (between Franklin & Laguna)
What: 20% off of 20 selected sakes and nice surprises at the door!
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True Sake Selects - Sake 101 samplers, Great gift box, Great ideas
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Sake 101 "Classic"
$28 (includes box and tasting notes)
- Takenotsuyu Yukihonoka "Silent Snow" (Junmai/300ml)
- Hakutsuru "White Crane" (Junmai Ginjo/300ml)
- Dassai 50 "Otter Festival" (Junmai Daiginjo/300ml)
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Sake 101 "Deluxe"
$42 (includes box and tasting notes)
- Bunraku "Forgotten Japanese Spirit" (Yamahai Junmai/300ml)
- Kudoki Jozu "Pick-up Artist" (Junmai Ginjo/300ml)
- Dewazakura "Sakura Boy" (Daiginjo/300ml)
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Jozen Gift Set
$32 (includes box and tasting notes)
- Jozen Mizunogotoshi "White" (Junmai Ginjo/300ml)
- Jozen Mizunogotoshi Jukusei "Pink" (Junmai Ginjo/300ml)
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One-cup Gift Set
$17 (includes box and tasting notes)
- Chiyomusubi Kitaro Jungin (Junmai Ginjo/180ml)
- Chiyomusubi Oyaji Gokuraku Jungin (Junmai Ginjo/180ml)
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Warm & Fuzzy Gift Set
$32 (includes box and tasting note)
- Otokoyama "Man's Mountain" (Junmai/300ml)
- A pair of men's "sake socks"
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Make Your Own
This year we got great 300ml boxes from Japan. The design of the box
represents a traditional Japanese storage structure which walls are
made with clay. You see them at old sake breweries, too.
- $2.50 (2-bottle box)
- $3.50 (3-bottle box)
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Holiday Hours:
- Saturdays 12/4, 12/11 & 12/18: 11am -7pm
- Friday 12/24, Christmas Eve: 11am - 4pm
- Saturday 12/25, Christmas Day: Closed
- Friday 12/31, New Years Eve: 11am - 4pm (20% off on sparkling sakes in-store only)
- Saturday 1/1, New Years Day: Closed
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Sake & Miwa - In the Sprit of Reflection
As the year-end approaches I find myself reflecting on the many things
that have happened to me in this last year, both wonderful and
bittersweet. In the spring, I was fortunate enough to be invited to
Kanazawa to visit a farm where they grew rice for sake. This was great
fun. My wedding in the early summer to a very loving man was joyful.
Making the Sake Day a successful event in the fall was fulfilling.
In the spirit of reflection I thought I would look back at my sake
notes and saved labels and share some of this years memorable sake
moments.
January
Harushika "Shiboribana" Junmai Ginjo Nama (seasonal)
Every year I look forward to this refreshing, vibrant nama from
Nara. A sip of this sake makes me yearn for a sunny spring day. In
two months when it is released, I will taste the sake again; a nice
way to start a new year.
February
Hakushika Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu (210-day matured)
Yes, this is the same sake Beau wrote in the Sake Spotlight section
of this newsletter. The first time I tasted this sake was at Joy of
Sake in 2008, when it was not yet imported. I kept remembering a
great balance of flavor, acidity and sweetness. I was very glad to
taste it again and to have it available at the store.
March
Aramasa Akita Rokugo "#6" Tokubetsu Junmai
This sake was one of several samples sent by the importer. We
thought there was only one case available, but then we learned that
there were a few more! Next thing I know, this sake became my go-to
Junmai. The fruity aroma of this brew reminds me of a Ginjo, yet the
subtle rice tones in makes it an elegant Junmai.
April
Tenju Junmai Ginjo Nama (seasonal, not available in the U.S.)
When I am in Tokyo I often stop at one of the stores inside Tokyo
Kotsu Kaikan (Tokyo Transportation Building) in Yuraku-cho. There, I
always pick up something new. Of course I knew of the Tenju brand-
their "Chokaisan" brand Junmai Daigio is imported. However, I had
never tried their nama-zake before. Among several sakes I brought
back, this was the first one to be opened. My husband-to-be and I
watched and listened to the shimmering liquid as it poured out of
the bottle and into our glasses: beautiful sound, delicious aroma.
We both had a WOW! moment when we took our first sip. We were
speechless yet full of smiles. The sake was simply beautiful.
May
Juyondai Daikoshu Junmai Daiginjo
When I went to Japan in the spring, a friend of my mothers told me
that she had been given a few bottles of sake as a thank-you gift at
the end of her writing project-I think she was writing about sake
breweries. Since she did not really drink, she insisted on giving me
the sake. A few days before my departure, she dropped off two
bottles. When I saw them, I went "wow." One of them was hard-to-get
Juyondai, and the bottle said "daikoshu," literary meaning "big aged
sake." After a few months of waiting, I opened the bottle at a
gathering among sake enthusiasts. Being daikoshu I was expecting
this brew to have typical aged sake characteristics, such as amber
color, sweetness, caramel tone, etc. In contrary the sake was clear,
bearing floral scent and offering an elegant texture. In the back of
my mind, I kept thinking about how much each sip would cost.
Needless to say, I enjoyed this unexpected treat very much.
June
Chokaisan Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu
My deepest thanks to Mr. Ohi from Tenju Brewery and Linda Noel
Kawabata from Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council for this sake,
which they so graciously brought with them to be our special wedding
sake. Our celebration was held on one of the hottest days this year.
On the side of Bernal Height hill, we had "san-san-kudo, a
traditional Japanese wedding ritual where three-times, three
exchanges of sake in a nuptial cup between the bride and groom takes
place.
The sake was poured into a gold-plated cup, which felt so nice and
cool on the lips. Traditionally a man would take the first turn, but
my soon-to-be husband insisted that I go first. The sake was
perfect. Cool and delicious. As it turned out it was so tasty that
for a moment, we both forgot that we were there to get married and
started to take mental notes on flavors, texture, etc. On my second
turn, I took a big sip as in an everyday drinking way; the sake was
too good. Very little was left in the cup for my sake loving
husband-to-be. On my third turn, in my heart, I thanked everyone who
helped me to have this special day.
July
Urakasumi Shiboritate Tokubetsu Junmai Nama (seasonal)
Several months had passed since this sake had been released. This
sake was velvety, complex, rich, yet balanced. "Wow" was first word
out of my mouth. Although I always said I was nama-shy, looking at
this list I no longer can claim that title.
October
Matsunoi Junmai Daiginjo
I tasted this brew for the first time at the industry-only event I
helped organized. What I remember the most is how soft it drank,
like a feeling of silk. I was simply amazed how subtle and flavorful
characters can co-exist in a liquid made from rice and water. This
sake is planned to be available in the U.S. next year. Can't wait!
November
Hakurosuishu Dewasansan "33" Junmai Daiginjo
At the Sake Day 2010 event, Aisawa-san from Takenotsuyu Brewery hand
carried this sake and poured it both chilled and warm, but I missed
it! I was too busy helping different stations. A few days after the
event I received a call that someone had left a jacket, which was
made in Japan. I was not able to pick up the jacket for a month, but
when I finally did I saw the name stitched on the inside pocket. It
read "Aisawa." I took the jacket with me when I went to Japan at the
end of October. I called the brewery to make sure it was his since
the character on the jacket was different from the one on his
business card, yet both pronounced the same. A few days after the
jacket was sent back, a package arrived. It was heavy. It was from
the brewery. Would it be sake? Upon opening the package, I smiled.
Here was a bottle of "33" along with two others. I was so thankful
and felt lucky even though this trip was to be with my family and
say my final good-byes to my father who recently passed away.
December
It just arrived. I am still working on it! I will let you know next
year. Have a peaceful and happy holiday season! Let me know you
favorites. Email me at
miwa @ truesake.com.
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"Ask Beau" - "Did you live up to your 2010 New Years Sake Resolutions?"
Ha! You people are good! And I guess you do read the Newsletter. Last
year I made up some pretty serious Sake Resolutions, and I received a
lot of feedback, especially from my peers within the industry. It
resonated with many, and I never really did a follow-up. So thank you
David G from Washington for calling me out.
I guess the best way to do this is to reprint the article and add
where applicable, and it is up to you to judge me. So did I live up to
my resolutions?
Herewith are my 2010 Sake Resolutions in no particular order.
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I resolve to try different categories!
Yup - I'm in a Junmai rut. That's all I drink on "my sake time." I
guess it's time that I branch out personally and consume some
Daiginjos - sparkling sakes - hell maybe it's even time to get into
some Nigoris.
FAIL! Nope I really didn't drink other categories with consistency.
I hung out in my Junmai comfort zone. Sparkling brews? Hmmm I
cannot even remember drinking sparkling sakes this year that were
not for work. I drink a little more Nama this year as opposed to
last, but as far as hunkering down in new zones - Koshu, Kijoshu,
Daiginjo, and Taru - I did not find a new comfort sake category.
- I resolve to bring more sake out to gatherings!
Yes, I am very aware of the fact that people call me "that sake
dude" and that I am totally associated with sake. In as much there
is almost an expectation that I attend events with sake filling my
pockets! "Did you bring sake for us sake guy?" "Where's the sake?"
"What did you bring?" This has been occurring for years and I sort
of rebelled against it. "Nope! I didn't bring sake, but I did bring
this incredible "Spicy Eggnog" "Naw- no sake tonight, but I did
find the most unusual bottle of blueberry wine." Well, I guess the
time has come that I start bringing sake to events - no more
dodging who and what I am - no more pineapple infused apple brandy.
SUCCESS! I was back on the "sake-to-parties" bandwagon and by the
looks of it people were quite pleased. When I went to wine
gatherings I brought some "wine-like" brews, and when I went to
"beer bashes" I brought some "beer-like" brews. My favorite was a
party that I went to in Wyoming where the major demographic was
filled with boots, spurs, and cowboy hats. It was a wrangler's
party and I brought some really dry and ricey sakes. In a word the
cowboys loved sake! Why? Well one "dude" said that he didn't like
wine because it was too fruity - even dry wine. But sake drank more
like beer to him. That was cool!
- I resolve to try sakes that I have not had in a long time!
There is so much sake out there that I have lost a lot of sake
friends. With such an assortment of brews on the market I find that
I keep trying the new sakes - at the expense of sakes that I used
to really like. Take Rihaku for example. I have not had the
Wandering Poet in a very long time. I miss the Poet! I tried it the
other day and said to myself "You knucklehead - don't forget your
friends!"
FAIL! Dangnabit! Yes indeed, that first statement rings very true
- "There is so much sake out there..." I will be honest. I cannot
keep up! I simply cannot keep up. There is so much sake out there
that I have to continually try to stay ahead of the Jones's and
those folks drink! This is the first year in my non-illustrious
career where I can say with sincerity that I cannot stay up to date
on all the brews out there. This is a great thing, but I feel a
little ashamed for not being "on it." So in a word, I have not had
time to go back to some of the brews in my past, and renew some
friendships. That said, many of the brews that I wanted to visit
now have sister or brother products from the same brewery - it's
crazy!
- I resolve to re-try sakes that I remember not liking!
This is huge! El Snob Boy has access to so many sakes that he
scoffs at brews that he once tasted and did not care for. How
shallow is that? It's time to taste some brews that need a second
chance. We all need a second chance some time and so too do sakes.
Perhaps my palate has changed and maybe I will enjoy some of these
brews that I relegated to the Island of Misfit Sakes.
SUCCESS! Oddly enough after what you just read above, I did get the
chance to taste some brews that I placed in that horrible category
of "Not My Cup Of Tea." It's funny, when I taste sake in front of
makers or owners of brewers I feel compelled to say that I like
sakes that I don't really care for. In a sense it's like saying I
do not like your children. Your kids suck! Seriously, your children
are scum and I wouldn't clean my toilet with your efforts. So you
learn to move laterally with your harsh criticism - "Oh this sake
would appeal so much to those who like really bitter dark as the
night chocolate." Or "Wow, there is a group of sake drinkers out
there who love that really long - dragon-like - tail." Or "Yes,
this is sake drinker's sake where you can really taste the alcohol,
this isn't about fruity, this is about booze all the way." I have
actually said it once "It's very solid, but it is not my cup of
tea." It took roughly three days of translation for the "effect" to
be comprehended by my host. (First words were "sake is not supposed
to be tea.") Oh and lastly, 8 out of the 10 brews that I did not
like, I still didn't like! Is it me? (Thinking about that Charlie
Manson joke where he says: Is it hot in here or am I crazy?)
- I resolve to not just drink sake!
As a professional I must dissect every sake that passes my lips. It
is a certainty that I cannot run from. Well - I tried my best
recently to do just that - to run from dissecting sakes. So I just
opened bottles - did not smell - and just drank the brews. I tried
my best to just drink for pleasure's sake. No thinking drinking.
How boring is this? Sure it is mindless - like TV in my mouth, but
boring nevertheless. It's time to get back into the dissecting
business and to really comprehend the brews at hand. I need to
refocus on pulling a part the components - try to find the water,
try to taste the rice varietal, see if I can pull the yeasts. I
need to refocus on the elements!
FAIL! Damn this one hurts. Maybe I am "overtasted"! Maybe I have
been around the block too many times. Maybe - just maybe - I have
gone Wilt Chamberlain on my own personal sake tasting experiences.
(From Wikipedia: He was a lifelong bachelor and became notorious
for his claim to have had sex with 20,000 women, a statement which
has entered popular culture.") I have seen behind Oz's curtain, I
have seen the ins and outs, I have seen the emperor's clothes, and
I have seen the un-seen, and perhaps I became a little bored in
2010. "I Just Drank Sake" this year. Of course I did a lot of "this
year vs. last year" tastings. Of course I did a lot of "new brew
reviews." But on my time - end of the day stuff - the fascination
station was muted, and I simply drank sake for enjoyment rather
than for the "how, what and why's?"
- I resolve to give more feedback to the brewers, importers, and distributors!
The hardest thing to do in the sake business is to honestly comment
on the brews themselves to their makers. "Your sake sucks!" "Man
the balance is all out of whack." "I wouldn't even cook with that
crap" "Tastes like weasel wiz." "Did your children make this?" "Did
your grandfather bathe in the brewing vat?" "Your toji has the
skills of a hot dog vendor." "Are you sure this is sake?" "This is
great, great for cleaning open wounds" Yes I have had some not
really good sake in my day. In fact my motto is "I drank a lot of
bad sake so you don't have to." But never in all this time did I
utter the above descriptions. Not once! (Well maybe the one about
the grandfather cleaning himself in the brewing vat.) Because it's
just not done! Every sake is made with so much love and devotion
that it's almost an insult to say something negative. We have
mastered the "dance" or the way to dance around an honest answer.
"Yes, I like this sake it has such a complexity to it - such a how
do you say it - opulence and elegance." Yup! From "weasel wiz" to
"complexity" just like that! But this is a disservice at the end of
the day - if as a professional I can find faults or imbalances then
I should perhaps pass this opinion on without it being read as an
insult.
FAIL! (Please refer to #4's failure!) Sometimes I feel like
throwing my arms up to the heavens, falling to my knees and wailing
"I'm just an end user, man!" (With a twinge of the Big Lebowski's
voice.) It hurts. It simply hurts! Brewer's ask. Owner's of
breweries ask. Exporters ask. Importers ask. Distributors ask.
Dying mothers of importers ask. "Do you like this sake?" The actual
son of the dying mother will be there and he will give me that "go
ahead and just say the truth, say what you feel, she will
understand" look. "NO, it's rat piss!" "It has the balance of a
one-legged tight-rope walker who has a ferret gnawing at his balls
while attempting to cross between two skyscrapers in a hurricane."
Doooooooooooooooot - the sound of the cardiac machine flat-lining.
"MOM, dude why did you say that? Couldn't you just say something
like it's not your cup of tea?"
- I resolve to update my notes!
This is a big problem. There are times when I review a brew, but
don't have my special books. Thus I have a lot of reviews on
napkins, pieces of paper and on the back of labels. These need to
be written in the book! But they are piling up. The longer I wait
the longer it will take to catch up. I must get on this before the
point of no return.
SUCCESS! As of the "release" of this newsletter I am proud to say
that I am current! And thanks to the help of my three North Korean
exchange students I should be on top of things for some time now.
On a serious note, I should have created an iApp for this by now -
actually had a good person working on it - but for the simple fact
that I have not had AT&T cell service in my store in the middle of
a major US city for the past 8 years I decided to just simply use
three North Koreans. (P.S. if you out of towners want to see my
window display protest to this pathetic cell-scenario
check out
this link or google it - many folks have shared their thoughts
about this artistic form of "responsible rage release."
- I resolve to do more sake experiments!
Being "too busy" is not a good excuse for not playing around with
sake. My passion and lust to learn is quenched by my unique and
weird sake experiments that I/we conduct to test the limits and
boundaries of sake. I am very proud of our ability to shatter or
confirm pre-conceived industry truisms about sake that are actually
false. There is only one way to explore sake and that is to explore
sake. I need to conduct a new batch of sake experiments to see what
we haven't seen in sake before.
FAIL! Aaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhh! This one kills me most of
all. Et tu, Brute? Crap! And double Crap! I cannot use "no time" as
an excuse. Where there is a will, there is a way! What really hurts
is that I get emails from brewers, shopkeepers, and journalists in
Japan asking, "what's the next experiment?" Not that I need to drag
my team into it, but let it be known that I did send out an email
to the entire squad with three different experiment recommendations
and asked for their thoughts. They have yet to respond, but be it
as it may, the juice has to come from me, and I have failed to live
up to test the wonders of sake, to challenge the beast known as
water and rice, to push the envelope! As Arnold the failed
politician from the future would say, "I'll be back."
- I resolve to learn more about the new sakes on the market!
Yes, in a word there are a ton of brews out there with more on the
way. I have access to a majority of the sakes, but there are a lot
of new brews that I have no idea about. That's not good. I need to
keep pursuing all sakes - however or wherever that takes me. It's
incredibly important to stay current, and it's very much a bummer
when somebody comes in and says to you have "so-n-so Daiginjo?" and
I reply that it is not exported to the US. To which they reply "yes
it is - I had it last night at so-n-so sushi" Doh! Not cool when we
don't know what's out there.
SUCCESS! We broke our butts this year to stay on top of all things
imported. And thanks to Miwa and Co. we corralled all of those
little doggies. Like wranglers on the range we brought in the
majority of the new brews and broke them good! Okay, that sounded
weird. Basically we accumulated all of the new sake arrivals - well
at least the vast majority - and really had a good shot at them. In
biz terms many of the major importers started to weed out the
weaklings in their portfolios and are replacing them with new
breweries. But because of the yen! That damn yen! They are bringing
far fewer labels over than years' past.
- I resolve to drink each sake like it is my first!
I have a professional pallet - and I forget that. My basis for
tasting sake is meteoric - and I forget that. I have tasted so many
sakes - and I forget that. I will taste a sake and each sip is
compared too/against every sip of sake that I have ever tasted. I
wish sometimes that I am tasting sake for the first time - again.
Can I re-virgin my pallet? Nope! Can a get pallet reconstruction
surgery? Nope! But I can try to focus on drinking each sake from a
"first timer's" perspective.
SUCCESS! I have learned to drink sake from my ear. I literally pour
sake down my ear hole and wait for it to blast threw my sinuses and
toggle through the back of my throat. I am drinking each sake like
a virgin again. Every brew is a new adventure, especially the
nigoris! Who needs pallet reconstruction when we have so many
orifices? If you thought snorting tequila was a way to bliss, wait
until you pour hot sake down your ear hole - hello heaven!
I guess in conclusion one could say that I suck at making New Year's
Resolution involving sake. That said I crushed my Resolution to stop
wearing my two beer can helmet with straws to the symphony.
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All other correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake.
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes.
This month, we'd like to feature round and flavorful Junmai from
Kobayashi Brewery in Fukuoka. We usually sell Bandai for $26, but for
you sake jockeys we will part with this 720ml (in a box) for $13.
And the SECRET WORD is...check your email inbox -
We only give out the
SECRET WORD in the mailed Newsletter! So
sign up for the Newsletter!
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Thank you for reading!
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Consider this...
The next "movement" in the sake world is for individual prefectures to
start branding and marketing individually. As Napa, CA brands, so too
do Niigata, Yamagata and Akita Prefectures. This "location awareness"
campaign has also fostered a new return to a terroir movement. Think
local!
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STORE HOURS
mon-sat:
12pm-7pm
sun:
11am-6pm
560 Hayes St., San Francisco, CA 94102
CONTACT US
415-355-9555
info @ truesake.com
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Sake - A Modern Guide
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