Taste with KJ – Kawatsuru ‘Olive’ Takes on Red Sauce Italian

Kawatsuru ‘Olive’ Junmai Ginjo produced in Kagawa prefecture by Kawatsuru Shuzo is one of the more unique sake options to grace our shelves in the past few years. Isolated yeasts called ‘hana-kobo’ have become relatively popular since Professor Emeritus Hisayasu Nakata established a method of extracting yeasts from flowers for industry research purposes. Over 30 hana-kobo have been established, including yeasts derived from peony, rhododendron, rose and more. A subset of flower yeasts are yeasts that naturally exist on fruits. Isolated fruit yeasts include apple, strawberry and Sanuki olive. 

Sanuki is a small city in Kagawa prefecture on the island of Shikoku, just below the Seto Inland Sea. Sanuki olive yeast is an attempt to create terroir expression at the microbial level. The Kagawa Prefectural Sake Brewery Association and the Fermented Food Research Institute of the Kagawa Prefectural Industrial Technology Center discovered and isolated yeasts from local Kagawa olives to create a truly Kagawa-focused sake. Kawatsuru not only uses Sanuki olive yeast for their Junmai Ginjo, but also Sanuki Yoimai, a local rice variety specific to the city of Sanuki. It is a crossing of Oseto and Yamada Nishiki rice; providing an ultra level locality to this uncommon Junmai Ginjo. 

It makes sense that Kawatsuru Olive sake, with its elegant green apple and melon aromas, pairs perfectly with Sanuki specialties such as iriko (dried sardines) and young yellowtail sashimi (raised on a diet of olive leaves). Kagawa Prefecture’s devotion to olives reminds me of my Italian heritage. Therefore, my question this month is, ‘Can an olive yeast sake stand up to Italian-American ‘Red Sauce’ cuisine?’

The term ‘red sauce’ generally refers to marinara sauce made with tomatoes, herbs, olive oil, garlic and onion that simmers over medium heat for a few hours. Red sauce also refers to a style of Italian cuisine that includes any dish using marinara sauce, such as pastas or Parmigiana entrées made with eggplant or chicken.  Although not using red sauce proper, one will find other Italian classics religiously offered at red sauce Italian joints. Other dishes include starter platters such as Antipasto, (an array of cured meats, cheese and marinated vegetables), Chicken Piccata or Francese (lemon butter based sauces with slight variations), Veal Marsala (Marsala wine, butter and mushrooms), bitter vegetables such as sautéed broccoli rabe and radicchio salads, as well as traditional desserts; most famously tiramisu and the infamous cannoli. 

This pairing experiment is where my culture and personal interests truly converge. Maybe none of you know, but in the ‘90s I was raised in New York City by third generation Italian-Americans. I went to Catholic school, I had a thick accent… the whole bit! With a high population of Italians in Queens, many families enjoyed red sauce Italian food regularly. As a kid randomly obsessed with Japanese culture and gastronomy, I never imagined the food culture I grew up with would be completely demonized by the restaurant world soon after. Red sauce cuisine was all the rage in New York City in the ‘80s, but hokey Italian decor and the overuse of white truffle oil put this cuisine at odds with the fine dining world I would shortly inhabit. As a kid without the internet or even a local sushi restaurant nearby, my unusual interest in Japanese culture came down to a strong affinity for Asian pottery, admiration of kimonos in books and fantasies of sitting on the floor during dinner, a concept I heard about on a travel show on TV.

On a recent trip back to the East Coast, I was inspired to start cooking my childhood favorites again. Luckily, these are very simple recipes that can be easily made at home and integrated into a weekly dinner schedule. For pairing with Kawatsuru’s Olive Junmai Ginjo, I prepared both Chicken Francese and Piccata, then opted for the shorter and tastier option of ordering from Hayes Valley red sauce eatery Il Borgo! 

Pairing Kawatsuru Olive with red sauce dishes was a great choice, as the sake’s fresh acidity and delicate aromas with a touch of spritz are very reminiscent of white wines from the region of Liguria. Coastal white Vermentino expresses itself similar to the Kawatsuru Olive, with a distinct citric quality, aromas of green apple and a firm, mineral finish. 

I paired the Kawatsuru Olive with every dish to see what elements of red sauce cuisine paired best with this chic sake of olive yeast origins. The sake itself was extremely pleasing as an apéritif, but also effective as a pairing partner for most of the dishes. The sake was at its peak against bitter and herbal components and was slightly challenged by tart tomato sauces. 

Starters:

Insalata del Borgo -  Radicchio, gorgonzola and pine nuts with house dressing and fresh herbs.

Kawatsuru Olive’s refreshing character and orchard fruit aromas contrasted well with the soft texture and flavor of pine nuts. This sake would be great with basil pesto pasta. The sake’s light sweetness balanced the intense bitterness of the radicchio leaves. The radicchio also brought out bright citrus tones and fresh acid, giving a sensation similar to a citrus waterfall in an evergreen forest.  The salad dressing of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and herbs was also great with Kawatsuru Olive. Another inspiring sake pairing that comes to mind with this salad is the more sweet and umami-driven Ohmine Dewasansan Muroka Nama Genshu ‘3 Grain’.

Caprese Insalate - Fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.

The tomato and basil were a match made in heaven with Kawatsuru Olive. The creaminess of the mozzarella benefited from the sake’s lean character and mineral finish. While fruit and flower yeasts don’t always exude the actual flavors of their source material, the olive oil in this dish was very complimentary to the slight fruitiness provided by the yeast esters. I decided to try this dish next to a simple bowl of arugula tossed with olive oil and balsamic. The arugula salad is where the sake came to the next level. The spiciness of the arugula paired with the slightly sweet sake allowed new flavors of jalapeño, corn nuts and chives to emerge. 

Main Courses:

Penne Alla Puttanesca - Tomatoes, anchovies, olives and capers. 

Kawatsuru Olive was less successful here. This sake could not stand up to the intensity of the Puttanesca sauce with strong fish and brine aromas coming from the capers and anchovies. The sake did pair nicely with the slightly salty Kalamata olive in the dish. It was like pairing a delicate sake with a preserved plum. Overall, Puttanesca sauce works better with either higher acidity red wines such as Chianti or dry fortified wines like fino sherry or vermouth. Chokyu Summer Junmai Nama Genshu ‘Extra Dry’  from Wakayama makes a very esoteric style that would work fantastically with Puttanesca. This daring and unusual sake is incredibly dry (+15)  and high alcohol (19%) with a very salty palate that will pair seamlessly with tomato, anchovies and capers. Try Chokyu this season before it's too late! 

Fusilli ‘Alla Norma’  -  This is a variation on the ‘alla norma’ style using mozzarella in place of Ricotta Salata cheese. Alla norma also includes eggplant sautéed in fresh tomato sauce and olive oil. This variation using fusilli (spiral-shaped) pasta had a distinct heaviness and a subtle bitterness from the eggplant. Kawatsuru Olive thrived again when paired with the eggplant, but the tanginess of the sauce would work better with a higher acidity, umami driven sake such as Mantensei Junmai Ginjo Kinoko. Kinoko is a sake with a plethora of wild mushroom notes that would greatly complement this dish and act as an additional component of the meal. 

Chicken Francese - I made this dish at home by slicing and pounding chicken breast cutlets, then lightly flouring and dipping in egg batter. The cutlets cook slowly in butter, white wine, chicken broth and fresh lemon, then chopped parsley is added at the end for a fresh, herbal kick. Chicken Francese (also spelled Francaise) is a very easy dish to make and I highly recommend it. This dish paired the best with Kawatsuru Olive due to both the chicken and sake’s bright citrus elements. The butter and lemon in the Francese sauce balanced the orange and grapefruit rind notes in the sake. The slight sweetness of the sake with a touch of minerality cut through the fat of the dish and the parsley heightened the green apple flavor in the sake. A variation of this dish is called Chicken Piccata, where the white wine is left out and capers are added. Adding capers to a portion of the lemon sauce heightened the saltiness, and another incredible citrus-driven pairing came to mind: Kudoki Jozu Junmai Ginjo ‘Pick-Up Artist from Yamagata Prefecture. 

Other Contenders: 

For Marinara or Arrabiata (spicy) tomato sauces, a more suitable option would be to create a contrast pairing with the ‘no sugar added’ Nanbu Bijin Muto Junmai Umeshu. The delicate sweetness and slight umami notes would be similar to pairing these sauces with a Sicilian Frappato rosé. For heartier meat and tomato-based sauces such as Bolognese beef ragu or pancetta-infused Amatriciana, a hefty sake very rich in umami and higher acidity is ideal.  Tsuchida Kimoto Junmai 90 ‘Shin has a high polishing ratio of 90% remaining rice and an ample amount of amino acid that allows it to stand up to serious Italian sauces. The sake’s aromas of salami, lemon peel, mushroom and meat stock make it a superb compliment to these more difficult to pair tomato-centric recipes. Tsuchida will also work wonders with Marsala-based sauces. Marsala, a fortified wine from Sicily (which can also be served by the glass), has complex notes of toasted nuts and golden raisins that taste exceptionally good when reduced in sauces with mushrooms. In addition to umami, Tsuchida’s high-toned citrus and apple cider notes add the additional complexity necessary to pair with fortified wine based sauces. 

I ended the evening with two Italian desserts, cannoli and tiramisu. Invented well over one thousand years ago, the cannoli is Sicilian & Arabic in origin. It is a specialty featuring tubular fried pastry dough filled with sweet ricotta cheese and sometimes garnished with pistachio, chocolate chips and citrus zest. Alternatively, tiramisu was invented in the late 1960s and is one of the most enticing desserts ever invented. Tiramisu was thought to be an aphrodisiac and for good reason. It is made primarily of espresso soaked lady finger cakes, mascarpone cheese, cocoa powder and occasionally coffee liqueur. The decadence level is off the charts! Take one bite of this intoxicating creation and you’ll think you are committing mortal sin. There are only a few select wines that can handle the intensity of pairing with these desserts, particularly vin santo and cream sherry. With sake, there are a multitude of options that provide enough sweetness and alcohol to suit these after dinner indulgences.

Kamoizumi Nigori Ginjo Nama ‘Summer Snow’ - this cloudy style sake with rice lees which provide body is just sweet enough to handle the cannoli custard’s sugar content, but bright and zesty enough to exhibit dimension. Cannoli made with candied lemon and pistachio would be most suited to Summer Snow from Gifu Prefecture. 

Tamagawa ‘Ice Breaker’ Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu BY 2022 - The sultry texture of the mascarpone combined with drenched ladyfingers calls for a sake with some sugar and soft umami to compete. Ice Breaker’s mouth coating richness pairs perfectly with the thickness of the tiramisu. The bitterness provided by the espresso and cocoa powder are balanced by the sake’s nougat, cashew and white chocolate aromas. Ice Breaker’s nutty umami matches the umami level of this dessert, but this brew also provides a slight fruitiness that arises after the complimentary aspects of the sake have done their job. Soft melon and pear flavors brighten up the palate after each decadent bite.

What is your favorite Italian food and Japanese sake pairings? If you would like to share your thoughts, email me at KJ@truesake.com and you could be featured in our next article. Kanpai for now!