Taste With KJ – Sparkling Sake For the Holidays

This year we need a mighty dose of peace on Earth and goodwill towards men. What better way to ring in the holidays than to imbibe on our ancient rice-based tipple of choice? While relatively new in the realm of rice and water; sparkling sake can satisfy our sweet tooth and will always provide the very merry bubbles we crave at end of year gatherings. Forged in 1998 by Ichinokura Brewery from Miyagi Prefecture, Suzune is the brand that started it all. The sparkling sake category was invented to compete with other popular alcoholic drinks such as beer, wine coolers and malt beverages. Small format bottlings and fun labels were a way to get newcomers interested in sake, appealing to both young and old. Sparkling sake has continued to grow and evolve since the beginning, so let's raise a glass while reading these tips and tricks on how to enjoy sparkling sake this holiday season:

Comparing the two is a vibe killer. Trust me, I know. When trying to position sparkling sake against wine, there are too many complicated production processes to review and  drastically different flavor profiles. When sparkling sake is allowed to stand on its own two feet, it becomes wildly more appealing. Sake will never have the raging acidity of a brut nature blanc de blancs or the toasty autolytic notes of vintage Champagne, so why bother comparing? The sparkling sake category is versatile since most products are featured in both small format, as well as the standard 720ml bottle size. Many of these sake are also cloudy, retaining some sake kasu for texture. Just remember, it is always a good idea to remind people that sparkling sake is not sparkling wine and it is not worth comparing the two. Sparkling sake is a unique category all its own. 

As mentioned before, the sparkling sake category is very young and with that, the concept of vintage in sake is also in its infancy. Even with aged sake, such as jukusei or koshu, most of these sake are aged and then released at the ideal moment when they are ready for consumption. Sparkling sake is more similar to non-vintage bubbly or Prosecco and should be consumed ice cold and as soon as possible. 

If your sparkling sake has rice remnants at the bottom, be careful when opening the bottle. Sometimes customers are confused as to whether they should shake the bottle or not. DO NOT SHAKE THE BOTTLE. I have had more than my fair share of sparkling sake accidents, one being a legendary fail at a True Sake holiday party years back. Gently tilt your bottle side to side and allow the bubbles themselves to bring up the kasu and integrate into the liquid. If you see an unusual closure and instructions on a booklet attached to the neck of the bottle, take your time and use a translator on your phone to figure out the appropriate way to open it. Some closures have a release valve for CO2 or other nifty tricks that are always evolving. Do not be the one to drench yourself and the floor with half a bottle of expensive sparkling sake because you didn’t read the instructions! 

Sparkling Sake Holiday Food Pairing Guide

Don’t forget to check out this list filled with holiday favorites and find the best sparkling sake pairing for your fun foodie festivities! 

Baked Brie -   Try a baked brie or better yet, a baked brie en croute (wrapped in pastry dough, then baked). This decadent classic needs a crisp textured sake with a smooth mousse and very minimal sweetness. Look no further than Dewazakura Tobiroku Ginjo Sparkling Nigori "Festival of Stars". 

Pigs in a Blanket - Personally, I love a pig in a blanket any day (tiny frankfurter wrapped in biscuit dough), but especially around New Year’s Eve. I can’t help but dunk these heavenly morsels into english mustard and ketchup, so elevated sake in a can will not disappoint. I’d recommend a 4-pack of SummerFall A Breezy Sake "Classic Bubbles".

Shrimp Cocktail - Fukucho Junmai Sparkling "Seaside" was designed for shellfish greatness. It has a hint of sugar that almost vanishes in tandem with this sake’s curt sourness. Soft green apple and citrus notes play second fiddle to Seaside’s elusive saltiness. This sake has enough sweetness, saltiness, and sourness to compliment the shrimp, but also holds up to the almighty cocktail sauce.

Gougères - These delicate, airy cheese puffs are all about precise texture. A soft crunch, with a silky lining and air where the cheese should be! Alas, the cheese is part of the dough and gives us but a whisper of cheesiness. For these sophisticated puffs, splurge on our newest sparkling sake in the store, Kaika Junmai Ginjo Sparkling "Awa". 

Deviled Eggs - Akashi-Tai Junmai Ginjo Sparkling’s lactic, yet fruit-forward character with ample sweetness meets its epic foe, the deviled egg. Deviled eggs are yolks mixed with mustard, mayo and sometimes vinegar or hot sauce. An awesome rendition mimics loaded potato skins with the addition of chive and diced bacon. The milky aspect of Akashi-Tai can combat the vinegar/hot sauce, the sweetness battles the mustard and the fruit lifts the devil from his hellish realm to a cloud of deliciousness. This is the ultimate contrast pairing.

KFC Chicken - Founded in 1970, the marketing team for the first ever KFC in Japan achieved the impossible by convincing the country that, ‘Kentucky is Christmas!’ Believe it or not, since the mid-70s, eating KFC for Christmas has become a well-established Christmas tradition. For a large fried chicken bucket with side dishes and dessert, pairing global darling Asahi Shuzo’s Dassai Sparkling 45 "Otter Festival" raises your KFC Christmas status from ordinary to extraordinary.

Prime Rib - This could very well be the most difficult holiday dish to pair sparkling sake with. But there is one who can stand up to the mighty challenge. That one is 2021 IWC Trophy winner  Kikuizumi Hitosuji Junmai Sparkling. This sparkling sake comes closest to a brut level Champagne with delicate yogurt notes, some savoriness and notes of orchard fruits. This sake has many layers and enough dimension to cut through the heftiest of Christmas roasts, the Prime Rib. 

(But really, if you want an umami bomb to pair with this succulent meat, try Mantensei Junmai Ginjo ‘Kinoko’ at any temperature). 

Baked Ham - Otokoyama Sparkling "Kita no Inaho" has so much lively acidity, with nonstop aromas of tangerine, pineapple and lime. Its sweetness is in miraculous balance with its freshness, and will pair outstandingly with a honey glazed ham shank. It will also be a glorious match with the ham’s pineapple rings and maraschino cherries! 

Gingerbread Cookies - Still one of the best sparkling sake in the shop, Ichinokura Suzune Sparkling "Chiming Bells" started at its greatest height and maintains that superb quality to this day. Suzune has a frothy mousse, full body and high amount of acidity and sweetness. It also exudes notes of grapes and honeydew, which make this a highly diverse sparkling sake that can pair with almost any dish. In this case, it takes on the difficult to match gingerbread cookie. The cookie’s gentle sweetness and fresh ginger enhance the fruitiness of Suzune without overpowering it. 

Bûche de Noël - The infamous yule log! These nifty cakes can replace an actual yule log in a fireplace, meant to ward off evil during the yuletide season. Bûche de Noël is a sponge cake that can be made in different variations, all of which are rich and sweet. They usually incorporate ingredients of chocolate, buttercream, edible forest decorations, and optional liqueur. Harushika Tokimeki Sparkling "Heartbeats" has enough sugar to pair, as well as notes of dried fruits and cream which will compliment the frosting and cocoa. (Check out my Koshu Set Elf pick for another great bûche de Noël pairing option!) 

Happy Holidays to you and yours! Kanpai!